You will find the Garden of Eden, an oasis and natural waterhole, at the end of the Kings Canyon Rim Walk in the Northern Territory’s Watarrka National Park. It is arguably the most memorable part of the walk, though getting there means contending with exposed desert, uneven rock and some steep stairs. Do your planning and you are rewarded with a striking juxtaposition of red sandstone walls and the quiet water and palms in the bush.
My name is Freya Pembroke. I put together travel guides for those who want to have the answers on the hot spots, the confusing ones and the “have we packed sufficient water?” questions before they go. Here is where the Garden of Eden is, how to get to it in real conditions and do so safely.
The Specialness Of The Garden Of Eden
It is a waterhole in the gorge of Kings Canyon that puts in place a natural oasis with its vegetation and shelter amid the arid country of Watarrka National Park. The transition is abrupt; you are walking past rust-coloured sandstone and then suddenly looking down at a shaded pool and greenery.
Consider it an integral part of the Kings Canyon Rim Walk experience as opposed to some roadside attraction you can putter into from the car park. To see it you must put in the time for the climb, a rest or two and to take in the trail.
The moniker has a certain grandeur to it and the bush does not overstate its case here. But do not expect a resort pool with a snack bar and a towel laid out for you. It is a remote site and one should be mindful of park regulations, the environment and local cultural sensibilities.
Location
Some 300 kilometres by road from Alice Springs, the Garden of Eden is in the heart of Kings Canyon, in the Red Centre to the west of the Stuart Highway and north-west of Uluru. Watarrka National Park is characterised by rugged tracks, dry creek beds and imposing red sandstone.
Access is normally via the Kings Canyon car park in proximity to the main trails. From the car park you set off on the Kings Canyon Rim Walk along the signed track. It is a circuit but the Garden of Eden is not right on your doorstep; you have to make the initial ascent first.
Do check the Northern Territory Government’s Watarrka National Park information for any alerts, closures or advice on the walks before you head out, as access and road conditions are subject to change.
Getting To The Track
For the independent traveller making the drive from Alice Springs, Uluru or elsewhere in the Red Centre, the last leg is uneventful on sealed roads if you have fuel to spare. Yet a flat tyre, a road train or an overlong lunch will put you back, so do not be too precise with your arrival times.
Those without a car can arrange a transfer or tour from their accommodation in the Uluru area or from Alice Springs. Be sure to ask what the itinerary at Kings Canyon entails; some will do the Rim Walk, others a more abbreviated version or just a stop to view.
Park And Make An Early Start
Be in to start before the heat of the day sets in. There is not much room for error with fatigue or delays if you leave it late, and the car park has a way of filling up in the dry season. Put your walking shoes on for the trip, you do not want to find out en route that your new boots have something of a grudge against your feet.
Head for the marked trail from the car park. You will come to the initial stair section, a good climb, and once you are up on the rim the path will take you over the sandstone and around the edge of the canyon to descend to the Garden of Eden.
On The Rim Walk
Timings can be anything on the Kings Canyon Rim Walk even if most put it down as a half-day’s hard work. For a determined walker the task can be done in short order, but put in several hours if one is inclined to pause for a photograph or require the odd rest, or if the going is hot.
There is no single protracted vertical ascent to make this a hard walk; the difficulty comes from having to contend with heat, a change in elevation, rough rock, exposed ground and steep stairs all in one route. One might find the climb back from the Garden of Eden to be the harder part of it, once the initial thrill of the waterhole has passed.
| Walk Section | What To Expect | Practical Advice |
|---|---|---|
| Car park to rim | A sustained climb up some steep stairs | Conserve your energy and take it easy at first |
| Rim and canyon walls | Broad views, open exposure and uneven sandstone | Mind your footing and put some protection on against the sun |
| Descent to the Garden of Eden | The track is uneven and there are steps as you head into greener pastures | Make time for photos and to have a rest |
| Waterhole area | You will come across rock pools, palms and some shade | Do not presume you can swim, just follow the signs |
| Return route | Back up to the rim and then down to the car park | Have snacks and water in reserve for the last part |
“Rim” is a word that will catch some out. It is not to be taken as a level footpath along the top; the route will have its climbs and descents, dips and rises. And where the track goes over rock slabs or is anything but even, the surface is apt to be rough underfoot.
Landscape Plants And Wildlife
This is Central Australian country in the true sense: red sandstone, spinifex, dry grass and open sky. But within the canyon, in the vicinity of water and what shade there is, things are different. The Garden of Eden makes quite an impression because of the palm trees and other plants that seem almost incongruous here.
Given enough time the light will do its work on the sandstone and you will see different colours in the morning and later in the afternoon. The canyon walls have their weathered formations and cracks. There is no need to dangle over an edge for a picture, the view is fine from a sensible distance and the fall is not worth it.
As for wildlife, you may spot some desert adapted birds or reptiles though nothing is a given. See that food is put away, do not feed the animals and let the stones, plants and cultural places be. This is Aboriginal heritage country so heeding any signs as to where you can rest or take photographs is in order.
How Hard Is The Hike
If you are reasonably fit and can put in a few hours on your feet, negotiate some stairs and uneven terrain, the Kings Canyon Rim Walk is well suited to you. For a beginner not accustomed to the heat or the elevation it is not the best bushwalk to start with, though Kings Canyon can still be had by those who consider their fitness and get an early start. Inquire with the park staff as to whether there are shorter options.
Those with medical issues made worse by exertion, unstable joints or an aversion to heat would be ill advised to attempt the track without medical clearance. The same for anyone with mobility problems. Children are welcome but should be kept a close eye on by adults at the waterhole and near the stairs and edges.
Expectation Versus Reality
One would like to think of it as a pleasant amble to a swimming hole but in fact it is a demanding walk through the canyon with an oasis at the end of the line. Whether you can or should have a swim in the Garden of Eden is a matter of the park’s rules and the state of the water and signage. Make of the waterhole what you will, but do not regard it as an open invitation to jump in.
Then there is the return journey which is often underestimated. After using more water than intended and basking in the shade at the Garden of Eden, the final climb back has about as much appeal as an unpaid bill. Put aside sufficient energy and provisions for the trip back.
When To Plan Your Visit
The Red Centre is most agreeable in the dry season, although that is relative. An afternoon can be hot after a cool morning and the weather can turn on a dime. Being a popular time of year you will have company on the main track and at the better vantage points.
In summer the heat is no joke and restrictions or closures are possible in the event of fire danger or similar. The wet season in the Northern Territory means storms and runoff. A little rain does not necessarily mean the Garden of Eden is any more appealing, it can make the tracks and roads treacherous and alter the safety equation.
A quick look at the forecasts, any park alerts and trail conditions is advisable before you head out. Do not be lulled by fine weather at your place of accommodation; maintenance, storm damage or a bushfire can put an end to access without warning.
The Canyon: Safety Tips
Most walkers will have heat as their primary concern. Make an early start, keep up with your drinking and be sure to take on more water than seems necessary. The track is exposed for the most part so sun protection is called for even if it is cool in the air. A hat, sunglasses and sunscreen are essential, as is some light clothing for your shoulders.
- Have on hand enough water and snacks along with a hat, sunscreen and a first-aid kit of sorts.
- Do not deviate from the walking track, heed closure signs and give cliff edges a wide berth.
- Let someone know what you plan to do. Have a phone with charge in it but make no assumptions about mobile reception.
- Should you find your judgement compromised by the heat, exhaustion, dizziness or an injury, turn around.
Do not consider the waterhole a source of drinking water. There may be contaminants in natural water that make it unsafe. And a swim is not always the answer to a hot day; water levels and conditions are variable, rocks about the pools can be slick and there are rules of access to observe.
You will come across snakes and other wildlife, see to it you do not disturb them. Leave a snake be and it will want nothing to do with you as it makes its way off the track. In remote areas where one can avoid it, do not walk alone and put no hands in holes or cracks.
Where To Stay and What To Bring
There is no point in lugging a suitcase of aspirational clothes for a Kings Canyon hike, pack things of a practical nature. You will get more from a pair of sturdy shoes with grip than casual sneakers. Your day pack should be small but contain a light layer for the morning, your medication, a phone, food and water and whatever you need for sun protection.
- Walking shoes and a broad-brimmed hat, clothing that will protect from the sun.
- For the return journey, high-energy snacks and water.
- Basic first-aid, power bank and phone, any personal medication.
- Some form of rain gear should storms be in the offing.
In the vicinity of Kings Canyon one will find camping and touring facilities as well as the established precinct, availability permitting. Discovery Resorts Kings Canyon is a popular base for those wanting to be near the park, though during busy times it is best to book in advance and check which of their facilities are operating. Expect to pay more than in a regional city of size; transport, food and accommodation out here are not cheap given the supply chain. Put together a budget by comparing prices for fuel, tours and meals before you go. If you are on your own, have sufficient food and fuel for the route.
Short Trips
One day is enough for the Kings Canyon Rim Walk if you set off at the earliest opportunity. Concentrate on the main route in the morning and put aside time for a decent meal and to recover instead of trying to hit all the far-flung lookouts. Include the Garden of Eden if you can do so safely. Otherwise put in a word with the locals for a shorter viewpoint or track. There is no better travel memory to be had from a leisurely, short walk than from an extended one where you are overheated and dehydrated, nursing quiet regrets over every decision made since breakfast.
If the itinerary is to be of some length, put Kings Canyon in with a stop at Alice Springs or Uluru, or elsewhere in the Red Centre. One should not make casual assumptions on the Stuart Highway as to where the next service station will be; the distances are considerable so have your fuel, lodging and driving breaks sorted ahead of time.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is The Garden Of Eden open for visitors?
It is, by way of the Kings Canyon Rim Walk, provided the track is open. But weather, heat, fire risk, maintenance or other conditions in the park can alter access. A word of advice: look up any Watarrka National Park alerts prior to your trip.
Getting to The Garden Of Eden
Make your way to the Kings Canyon walking-track car park, either by your own vehicle or an organised transfer and from there you follow the signs of the Rim Walk. Do not think of it as something you can simply drive up to; the route has its share of steep stairs and uneven sandstone before you descend to the waterhole.
Time required for the walk
Several hours ought to be put aside for the whole of the Rim Walk and back, factoring in time for a rest or a photograph. How long it takes is a matter of your fitness, the heat, how crowded the trail is and what you do at the Garden of Eden. Have daylight and energy to spare when you set off.
Swimming in the waterhole?
One would be wrong to presume swimming at the Garden of Eden is permitted. It may be deemed unsafe or unsuitable for a number of reasons, from the state of the water to the rules in place. Heed the signage and the park authorities, and under no circumstances drink from the waterhole without treatment.
When is the best time to go?
Walking is best done in the dry season for the most part, if one can put up with cold mornings and the likes on a popular trail. Forecasts should be checked and access confirmed before you leave; summer and wet-season storms are liable to cause closures or safety issues, so avoid the day’s peak heat.
A beginner on the Rim Walk?
Provided they are in good shape and have made the necessary preparations, it will suit them, but this is no gentle introductory stroll. With the exposed walking, uneven ground and steep stairs, those with mobility or fitness limitations, or medical concerns in the heat, would do well to get local counsel and opt for something less arduous.
What to have with you
Proper walking shoes, sun protection, a hat, phone, medication, a first-aid kit of sorts and ample food and water. Enough to see you through the return journey, not just to the waterhole. And do not count on mobile reception. Leave your rubbish behind.
Some parting thoughts for the traveller
You will find the Garden of Eden to be a defining part of the Kings Canyon Rim Walk, offering plant life and shade and water in the red sandstone canyon. Prepared visitors will have no trouble with access but it is a place to show respect for the distance, the wildlife and Aboriginal heritage as much as the heat and the stairs.
Put in an early start, verify the conditions and take more time than the map would have you believe. Then the Garden of Eden is not just a name you see on a sign but a well-deserved respite in the Northern Territory bush.
